Geneva, 2nd June 2017: Back to School … With a Régulateur.
“Charmed” best describes the reaction that greeted Laurent Ferrier’s wristwatch called the Montre École, or “School Piece”. It represented the watchmaker’s earliest development, returning to the basic pieces which forged his abilities as a watchmaker. It also possessed the qualities that would make it a “watchmaker’s watch,” minimalist yet complete. It was a watch that would speak to horologists who have been there, learning the basics – one they would love to wear themselves.
What will surprise those who thought it may have been a cul de sac, a standalone expression of respect and nostalgia for the roots of his education is that the Montre École has evolved into precisely what any instructor would hope for such a timepiece: a platform that invited further projects. For the second model to use the School Piece case, Mr. Ferrier has turned to the layout that isn’t merely familiar to watchmakers. It is one that also represents a type of clock which would have been used to guide the watchmaker when making, servicing or regulating a timepiece.
For 2017, Laurent Ferrier will be launching a new Régulateur display on a base of a Galet Micro-Rotor movement, housed in a School Piece case. Its visage is classical, with the most important of the three indicators – the large, centrally-positioned hand – displaying the minutes. Above the centre, at 12 o’clock is the hours display, while below it, at 6 o’clock is the seconds subdial.
While regulators suggest the utilitarian and the functional, Laurent Ferrier is incapable of releasing a watch that is prosaic. The movement is the FBN Calibre 228.01, with automatic winding courtesy of a pawl-fitted micro-rotor, delivering a 72-hour power reserve. The 40mm stainless steel case or white gold is water resistant to 30m and is fitted with sapphire crystals for front and back, for a perfect view of the movement. Alongside the Côtes-de-Genève motif on the bridges and the circular graining on the mainplate, the wheel spokes are bevelled, the screw heads are chamfered and polished and the interior angles are hand-crafted.
For the dial, a silver toned, vertical satin-brushed finish has been chosen, with the minute and seconds counters recessed and contracted with a nickel snailed finish. The small hours dial bears Roman numerals in black, while the minutes are shown on a “railway track” ring in slate grey with blue painted Arabic numerals at 15, 30, 45 and 60 minutes. The hands for the three functions include a “leaf-shaped” hand for the hours and “assegai-shaped” hand for the minutes and a baton-shaped hand for the seconds. All three hands are in white gold 18K/210Pd with a black ruthenium treatment.
The Galet Micro-Rotor Montre École Régulateur will be available from Laurent Ferrier agents from July.
• Calibre reference: FBN Calibre 228.01, automatic winding with pawl-fitted Micro-Rotor, 72-hour power reserve
− Micro-Rotor winding system fixed between the main plate and the Micro-Rotor bridge
− silicon escapement with double direct impulse on the balance
− a silent block shock protection type system for the Micro-Rotor
• Indications: hours, minutes, small seconds at 6 o’clock
• Movement diameter: 14’’’ = 31.60 mm
• Movement thickness: 4.35 mm
• Number of parts: 189
• Number of jewels: 35
• Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)
• White gold or stainless steel
• 40 mm three-piece bassiné case
• Thickness: including the sapphire crystal 10.95 mm
• Sapphire crystal case-back
• Water-resistant to 30 metres
• Silver toned, vertical satin-brushed finish
• Hour and Seconds counters recessed with a nickel snailed finish (hour counter diameter 12.60, seconds counter diameter 10.60)
• Roman numerals for the Hours painted in black
• Railway minutes track in slate grey with blue painted Arabic numerals at 15,30,45,60
• Blue painted “Regulateur” inspired by the Laurent Ferrier typography
• Hours: “leaf-shaped” hand in 18K/210Pd white gold with black ruthenium treatment
• Minutes: “assegai-shaped” hand in 18K/210Pd white gold with black ruthenium treatment
• Seconds: baton-shaped in white gold 18K/210Pd white gold with black ruthenium treatment
• Grey alligator leather, hand-sewn, Alcantara lining
• White gold or stainless steel pin buckle or double-blade folding clasp on request
• Côtes de Genève pattern on the bridges and the circular graining on the mainplate, flanks are hand-drawn, wheel spokes are bevelled, screw heads are polished, and interior angles of the balance-cock are hand crafted with a burin. The Micro-Rotor bridge is hand polished.